Beauty in the face of Destruction

2013-logging dozens of hours in the water, wondering about it all; all the crazy shit, all the stuff that make you think, WTF. And, how come I get to have these insane surfing experiences? One after another. One after another.

Going back to the place of my life changing experience

The River has been so good to me this year, while it has ended the surfing season for many with injuries.

Bean Avenue, such a good bar. Logged about 12 hours there in 4 days, with some beers and a new board mixed in.

The Most Insane Bar

There has been so much surf this season it's not even funny. Pulled up at the River today and it was absolutely going off. Black Diamond style, the kind of waves that make you take a few shits before paddling out. 

My first 5 waves I had 4 dry tube rides. You wanted all of your strength and adrenaline to surf these waves. The conditions were not for the faint of heart, if your leash broke you would be in a serious predicament. I had one wave that spit so hard on the take-off that I almost got blown off my board. It was a very exciting day and I couldn't understand why so few surfers were around. There were just 3-5 of us in the water all day, everyone hooting each other into some serious tube riding. A session like this topped off with a huge plate of food and a beer epitomizes the term "chilled out."

Thank you powers that be to enable me to be able to experience such magic. Now if only I could learn to tap into that magic 24/7

Looking for the Green Flash

That one moment in time where we say to ourselves, "Did you see that!" A moment in time where we felt that something was unique or added significance to our lives. When I was visiting my parents we scrambled out of the house to catch the sunset. Well into their 80's they still have that desire, that inner child like quality to wonder and be in awe of the world. Not resigned to sit in the car,  their enthusiasm for natures display was stronger than the cold northwest wind. 

Furiously taking pictures trying to capture refracted bits of light, I couldn't help think of how none of it can really be captured by film, just as the only way to know what it's like to ride a wave is to be on one. That fleeting moment, just like a good tube ride, why do want to have those experiences?  

We didn't see the green flash but it didn't matter. Every moment in time has such significance.

"Frontier occurances
for disengaged youth
fleeing socieities expectations
and the parental trappings
of generations
whose past
limits their understanding
of the future."

Holy shit, that definitely defines my outlook in a nutshell. Ironically, my parents are the ones who are responsible for helping shape such values.