2013-logging dozens of hours in the water, wondering about it all; all the crazy shit, all the stuff that make you think, WTF. And, how come I get to have these insane surfing experiences? One after another. One after another.
Going back to the place of my life changing experience
The River has been so good to me this year, while it has ended the surfing season for many with injuries.
Bean Avenue, such a good bar. Logged about 12 hours there in 4 days, with some beers and a new board mixed in.
